Climbing --- 7/15/2018 - 8/7/2018 --- Switzerland, France
-- Mark Twain
This was an awesome three weeks in which I carried far too heavy a pack, lost 7 pounds, stepped on over 50 bolts, and took a bunch of pictures.
Oh... also... Jackie and I attempted eight big alpine routes in the Swiss and French alps. And we were successful on seven of them.
We started in Goschenen, Switzerland, hiking up to Salbit. Turns out tent camping is not allowed anywhere in this valley (tent camping is allowed everywhere else we go this trip, some tents are set up just meters from the huts, but most are a respectful distance). We stayed at the bivy hut below the West Ridge of Salbit. Both to save money and to be closer to the start of the South Ridge route than we would be at Salbit Hut.
We took it easy our first day. Getting on Incredible (260m, 7 pitches) a route up Gemsplanggen which is basically the east ridge of Salbit. It goes pretty quickly at around 5.10a. After Incredible, we stashed our ropes near the base of South Ridge to lighten our load the next morning.
Waking at 4am for South Ridge (590m, about 18 pitches) we hiked from the hut, grabbed our ropes, scrambled up the approach gully, and reached the start of the first pitch around 6am. It was a really fun climb with a variety of climbing. The topo said something about two points of aid somewhere around pitch 7. I grabbed every draw and stepped on every bolt... just so I wouldn't accidentally miss the two points of aid. At least two of the pitches were solid 5.10, but a majority of the climbing was 5.6 to 5.8. There were three rappels during the climb as we would reach the top of towers and have to go down to stay on the ridge. We reached the summit around 3:30pm and walked to the Salbit Needle, but an approaching thunderstorm encouraged us to go down. The long descent was well blazed and had some short sections of via ferrata. We were back in our bivy hut around 7:20pm. Not bad for a big grade IV route.
Then we took a rest day.
The next day was drizzly all day. Good for hiking if not climbing. We hiked up and down and up and up and up and down and up to the Bergsee Hut. We passed two via ferratas, one of which was massive. The whole hike took me 11 hours with my too heavy pack. It kinda broke my quads and they never fully recovered for the rest of the trip. Luckily, Jackie was always willing to take a little more weight in her pack. Our heavy double ropes, 12 days of food, and full camping gear had me carrying a 70+ pound pack at the start of the trip. I'll never make that mistake again. Most people stay and eat at the huts so they just carry a few snacks and their climbing gear. Expensive, but easier on the quads.
Weather sucks. Luckily, because I need a rest day.
We want to climb the South Ridge of Bergseeschijen (350m, 11 pitches) but the weather still sucks. We wait an hour to see if it clears. Nothing. So we decide to do the Krokodil via ferrata. It is the only one we do for fun the entire trip. The others are just part of a hike or descent. And Krokodil is fun! After, the weather still hasn't cleared. A tiny tiny section of the sky turns blue for 30 seconds. We start up the South Ridge. We finish the 11 pitch route in under 3 hours. I'd put the grade around 5.6, but we had visibility less than 30m the entire time. Too bad because the views would have been spectacular. That night we hike back to the road and camp just above Goscheneralp.
We take the train to Grenoble where we get a cheap airbnb. From there we rent a car and drive to Briancon and from there to Ailefroide at the eastern edge of the Ecrin mountains. At a campground that is five times bigger than Miguels, we sit in our car through several long rain storms.
The next morning the weather has cleared and we hop on Palavar les Flots (430m, 12 pitches). This climb is supposed to be around 5.8, but it feels like a 4th class scramble. We finish in well under 3 hours. Which is good because it storms all afternoon.
Our next Ailefroide climb is La Cocarde (230m, 6 pitches). Goes around 5.8 with a few harder moves. We finish early. Before the rain.
The next day we aim for Soleil Trompeur. We get an early start, but hike up the wrong gully. That costs us at least 90 minutes. We finally get on the climb and do the first 4 pitches (around 5.7) pretty quickly. But the weather looks ominous and we want to drive to Les Etages in the afternoon. So we head down after just 4 pitches. Our one bail of the trip. But it works out well because the storm does move in, and we still have a very long day ahead: hiking out, looking at Chamoix deer in the park, driving several hours to Les Etages on the western side of the Ecrins, and hiking up to Aiguille Dibona. We set up our tent as the sun dips below the horizon.
Up early for our fourth day in a row of climbing. I'm tired. Jackie is tired. But Aiguille Dibona is gorgeous. We climb Visite Obligatoire (450m, 13 pitches) and it is one of my all time favorite climbs. A direct line straight up an absolutely stunning tower. Sustained 5.10 climbing for eight of the thirteen pitches. Bolts where you need them most, but you would never mistake it for a sport route. We had great weather, great company, gorgeous views, amazing climbing, and a 2000' glissade on the descent! If you go climbing in France, do not miss this climb. Seriously.
Excited for a travel/rest day, we head to Chamonix where we camp at Les Arolles (which is French for "I don't know, try turning your wifi off and on, then see if you can connect").
Still tired the next day, we go for a day hike. Carrying no climbing gear! We hike to Plateau des Pyramides and get great views of Glacier des Bossons.
Rest over! We load up our packs with camping and climbing gear. We don't need no stinking tram! A tough 4 hour hike gets us to the Plan de l'Aiguille where we set up camp in a gorgeous location.
Last climb of the trip... Arete des Papillons (250m, 14 pitches) mostly 5.8 with a few moves of 5.10 on the crux pitch. The climb goes quickly and we are back to our gorgeous tent site in plenty of time to watch the sun set.
Done with the climbing and hiking portion of the trip, we take a bus to Lyon where I'm a tour guide for the day. We do EVERYTHING! Croix-Rousse market, Tete de Or zoo, Fouvere, ice cream, Museum of Confluence, Decathalon, more ice cream with Lindsay. All in record breaking heat.
Then we head to Paris where we again do EVERYTHING! Musee de Orsay (free admission day! we see every gallery), Louvre and Notre Dame (just the grounds), we attempt to see the catacombs but waiting three hours in the sun doesn't sound like a good idea. We visit Sacre Coure. Then go for night views of the Eiffel Tower (mandatory!), and the Arch de Triumph, and the Moulin Rouge.
Phew!
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Flying never goes well for me. Ithaca, Syracuse -- 7/15/2018 |
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But I made it to Zurich and met up with Jackie Zurich, Switzerland -- 7/16/2018 |
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Four Burger Kings in the train station. Better to meet by the giant spider's web. Zurich, Switzerland -- 7/16/2018 |
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Ready to start hiking Goschenen, Switzerland -- 7/17/2018 |
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Ready to start hiking Goschenen, Switzerland -- 7/17/2018 |
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On the way to Salbit Goschenen, Switzerland -- 7/17/2018 |
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On the way to Salbit Goschenen, Switzerland -- 7/17/2018 |
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Great view of Salbit Goschenen, Switzerland -- 7/17/2018 |
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So Alpine! Goschenen, Switzerland -- 7/17/2018 |
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The bridge. I think we crossed it five times. Goschenen, Switzerland -- 7/17/2018 |
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Approaching Incredible on Gemsplanggen, the long ridge east of Salbit. Goschenen, Switzerland -- 7/18/2018 |
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Climbing Incredible Goschenen, Switzerland -- 7/18/2018 |
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Climbing Incredible Goschenen, Switzerland -- 7/18/2018 |
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Atop Incredible. Jackie is in airplane mode to save battery. Goschenen, Switzerland -- 7/18/2018 |
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Rappelling the snowfield at the bottom of Incredible Goschenen, Switzerland -- 7/18/2018 |
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Sheep Goschenen, Switzerland -- 7/18/2018 |
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6:20am. Getting ready to rope up at the start of the South Ridge of Salbit. Anya and Blazej are just ahead of us. Goschenen, Switzerland -- 7/19/2018 |
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Attempted murder Goschenen, Switzerland -- 7/19/2018 |
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Anya leading the fifth pitch Goschenen, Switzerland -- 7/19/2018 |
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This photo is of Anya and Blazej who were just ahead of us on Salbitschijen. They are starting up the fifth pitch which is the start of the second tower. We are at the top of the first tower (fourth pitch) and about to rappel to their position. The photo was taken at 8am so the ridge is sharply defined with the east side in full sun and the west in shade. Goschenen, Switzerland -- 7/19/2018 |
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Anya and Blazej on the final three pitches of Salbit South Ridge. Goschenen, Switzerland -- 7/19/2018 |
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Anya and Blazej on the final three pitches of Salbit South Ridge. Goschenen, Switzerland -- 7/19/2018 |
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Anya's shot of me getting ready to do the final rappel before moving to the headwall of Salbit. I'm the little dot on the left bump in the lower center of the photo. Goschenen, Switzerland -- 7/19/2018 |
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Jackie glad to be on top of Salbit Goschenen, Switzerland -- 7/19/2018 |
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The West Ridge of Salbit. Another stunning climb! Next trip? Goschenen, Switzerland -- 7/19/2018 |
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The Salbit needle. We didn't climb it because a thunderstorm was moving our way. Goschenen, Switzerland -- 7/19/2018 |
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Starting the Salbit descent Goschenen, Switzerland -- 7/19/2018 |
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Our wonderful bivy hut! Goschenen, Switzerland -- 7/20/2018 |
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Hat tip to the Paso del Viento refugio in Patagonia Goschenen, Switzerland -- 7/20/2018 |
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Over Queen, Under Jack!!! We found this nearly Schafkopf deck in the hut. Sixes? Goschenen, Switzerland -- 7/20/2018 |
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Rest day = hair washing Goschenen, Switzerland -- 7/20/2018 |
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Big via ferrata on the hike from Salbit Hut to Voralp Hut Goschenen, Switzerland -- 7/21/2018 |
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Big via ferrata on the hike from Salbit Hut to Voralp Hut Goschenen, Switzerland -- 7/21/2018 |
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Ladders into the fog Goschenen, Switzerland -- 7/21/2018 |
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Some of these ladders have a factor 10+ fall on them, so even if we had via ferrata kits (which we didn't... we were just using climbing slings) a fall would have been pretty serious. Goschenen, Switzerland -- 7/21/2018 |
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Resting Goschenen, Switzerland -- 7/21/2018 |
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Baby marmot? Goschenen, Switzerland -- 7/21/2018 |
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The role of Jackie is slated to be played by Sigourney Weaver in the movie version Sheep in the Mist Goschenen, Switzerland -- 7/21/2018 |
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Rest day at Bergsee Hut Goschenen, Switzerland -- 7/22/2018 |
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Bergsee Hut Goschenen, Switzerland -- 7/22/2018 |
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Goscheneralpsee Goschenen, Switzerland -- 7/22/2018 |
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A very foreshortened Bergsee with the Krokodil in front Goschenen, Switzerland -- 7/22/2018 |
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Bergsee Hut Goschenen, Switzerland -- 7/22/2018 |
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Klettersteig Krokodil Goschenen, Switzerland -- 7/23/2018 |
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Klettersteig Krokodil Goschenen, Switzerland -- 7/23/2018 |
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Camping spot in Goscheneralp Goschenen, Switzerland -- 7/23/2018 |
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Beautiful morning in Goscheneralp Goschenen, Switzerland -- 7/24/2018 |
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Farmer's market haul! Grenoble, France -- 7/25/2018 |
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My pack won't fit in this car.
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Palavar les Flots Ailefroide, France -- 7/26/2018 |
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Atop Palavar les Flots. The massive campground is barely visible in the valley below. Ailefroide, France -- 7/26/2018 |
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Climber on Palavar les Flots Ailefroide, France -- 7/26/2018 |
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Soaking my sore feet in the frigid river Ailefroide, France -- 7/26/2018 |
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La Cocarde Ailefroide, France -- 7/27/2018 |
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La Cocarde Ailefroide, France -- 7/27/2018 |
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Soleil Trompeur, third pitch Ecrin Mountains, France -- 7/28/2018 |
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Saving battery with airplane mode on Soleil Trompeur Ailefroide, France -- 7/28/2018 |
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Very glad to find 24 square feet of relatively level space to pitch our tent after a long day. Les Etages, France -- 7/28/2018 |
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About 200m up Visite Obligatoire. Note that I put Jackie in airplane mode before starting this pitch. Les Etages, France -- 7/29/2018 |
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Spanish climber coming up Visite Obligatoire Les Etages, France -- 7/29/2018 |
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Jackie around pitch 8 of Visite Obligatoire Les Etages, France -- 7/29/2018 |
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On the summit of Aiguille Dibona via Visite Obligatoire! Jackie is still in airplane mode. Les Etages, France -- 7/29/2018 |
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Atop Aiguille Dibona Les Etages, France -- 7/29/2018 |
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Jackie atop Aiguille Dibona via Visite Obligatoire Les Etages, France -- 7/29/2018 |
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Darn Tough Luck Jackie had a rough day. She dropped a belay glove around pitch 1. Then she dropped an approach shoe and sock from pitch 8. Luckily someone saw the shoe fall and put it up on a boulder near the hut. But she never found the glove or sock. Les Etages, France -- 7/29/2018 |
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Aiguille Dibona Les Etages, France -- 7/29/2018 |
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Aiguille Dibona Les Etages, France -- 7/29/2018 |
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The rappel anchors in France are really easy to find Les Etages, France -- 7/30/2018 |
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Palais de l'Isle Annecy, France -- 7/30/2018 |
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Mastadon Tusk #1 Jackie and the Mastadon Tusk Chamonix, France -- 7/31/2018 |
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Chamonix Chamonix, France -- 7/31/2018 |
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Glacier des Bossons Chamonix, France -- 7/31/2018 |
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View from our camp site at Lac Bleu Chamonix, France -- 8/1/2018 |
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View from our camp site at Lac Bleu Chamonix, France -- 8/1/2018 |
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View from our camp site at Lac Bleu Chamonix, France -- 8/1/2018 |
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Our camp site at Lac Bleu Chamonix, France -- 8/1/2018 |
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A big thunderstorm rolled through and then we were treated to sun showers and a double rainbow Chamonix, France -- 8/1/2018 |
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A big thunderstorm rolled through and then we were treated to sun showers and a double rainbow Chamonix, France -- 8/1/2018 |
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A big thunderstorm rolled through and then we were treated to sun showers and a double rainbow. That's Arete des Papillons on the right. Chamonix, France -- 8/1/2018 |
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A big thunderstorm rolled through and then we were treated to sun showers and a double rainbow Chamonix, France -- 8/1/2018 |
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Sunrise Chamonix, France -- 8/2/2018 |
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Arete des Papillons Chamonix, France -- 8/2/2018 |
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View from Arete des Papillons Chamonix, France -- 8/2/2018 |
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Climber on Arete des Papillons Chamonix, France -- 8/2/2018 |
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Climber on the crux pitch of Arete des Papillons Chamonix, France -- 8/2/2018 |
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Rappelling the snowfield at the base of Peigne. Last rappel of the trip. We are minutes from passing tourists and being done with the climbing portion of our trip. Chamonix, France -- 8/2/2018 |
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Arete des Papillons viewed from the descent Chamonix, France -- 8/2/2018 |
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Sunset Chamonix, France -- 8/2/2018 |
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Sunset Chamonix, France -- 8/2/2018 |
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Giraffe Lyon, France -- 8/4/2018 |
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Krokodil... the non-Klettersteig type Lyon, France -- 8/4/2018 |
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Fouvere Lyon, France -- 8/4/2018 |
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Fouvere Lyon, France -- 8/4/2018 |
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Fouvere Lyon, France -- 8/4/2018 |
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Confluence of Rhone and Saone rivers Lyon, France -- 8/4/2018 |
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Jackie and the
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Silk loom Lyon, France -- 8/4/2018 |
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Mastadon Tusk #2 Jackie and the Mastadon Tusk Lyon, France -- 8/4/2018 |
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Musee des Confluences Lyon, France -- 8/4/2018 |
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Record breaking heat Lyon, France -- 8/4/2018 |
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A Portrait of the Artist Rolling His Eyes Paris, France -- 8/5/2018 |
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Paris Paris, France -- 8/5/2018 |
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I've documented the making of this photo on my youtube channel. Click Like and Subscribe! Tourists Paris, France -- 8/5/2018 |
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Louvre Paris, France -- 8/5/2018 |
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Notre Dame Paris, France -- 8/5/2018 |
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Sacre Coure Paris, France -- 8/5/2018 |
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I felt bad walking around a cathedral during a service... until I saw this Paris, France -- 8/5/2018 |
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Sacre Coure Paris, France -- 8/5/2018 |
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When keychains hit six for a euro... buy! Paris, France -- 8/5/2018 |
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Arc de Triomphe Paris, France -- 8/5/2018 |
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The greatest thing... Paris, France -- 8/5/2018 |
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...you'll ever learn... Paris, France -- 8/5/2018 |
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...is just to love and be loved in return Paris, France -- 8/5/2018 |
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TSA: It is forbidden. This metal. Forbidden. It is forbidden. Jackie: These aren't the droids you are looking for. TSA: These aren't the droids we are looking for. Move along. Paris, France -- 8/6/2018 |