Rock Climbing --- 3/12/2011 - 4/4/2011 --- Red Rock, Nevada
Sorry for the abbreviated story. I tried to cover everything, but didn't go into my usual level of detail.
3/12 Flying from Ithaca to Vegas. No regular sites available. We crash late at night at group site F since we know the UNLV folks who have it reserved.
3/13 We wake in group site E. Oops! Sorry! We head to Ragged Edge where I lead Ok, Ok, Ok (5.6); Revoked (5.5); and Ragged Edges p1 (5.7). Then toprope Plan F to the first anchor (5.9+).
3/14 Awake early to climb Solar Slab (5.6). But not early enough... while hiking to Solar Slab we see headlamps in the gully. We end up behind a slower party and finish the climb 4.5 hours later than when Aramy and I climbed it three years ago. No big deal because we still finish and get back to the ground safe and sound. Then I make Josh curse. Possibly the highlight of my week. Another highlight is linking pitches 5 and 6 (approximately) with a 70m rope and climbing all of a 220' long hand crack. Definitely do this if you have the opportunity!
Little bit of beta: There is a better shower option than the climbing gym. Take Charleston and make a left on Pavilion and go to the Las Vegas Leisure Center. Showers are $3/day or $6/week. I didn't actually shower the entire trip, but it is nice to know I could have.
3/15 Climb Birdland (5.7+). Great climb. We rappel the whole thing with Zoe's 70m rope. Easier than using doubles. Unfortunately, the rappel follows the route, so we have to rappel through the seven other parties who are climbing behind us. After finishing Birdland we go over to Dark Shadows. Josh and Aramy climb the regular four pitches. Zoe and I climb the first two. My hand slips starting the third pitch and I nearly fall. So I decide to call it a day. We return to the campground to find that Jeanine has arrived with her Oregon crew.
3/16 "Rest" day. Never trust a COE instructor when they claim to be planning a rest day. We hike miles and miles and miles. Scampering to every sport crag at first and second pullout. Then off to the hot springs for more hiking... a relaxing soak... and more hiking. Overall, a day of hiking training.
3/17 Out of group site F... we finally have regular sites (with pavilions!) for us and the students. We climb Frogland. Delayed a bit by a stuck cam and some hiking misadventures, we still finish with plenty of time to head back to the campground and greet Vijay who has arrived to climb with Jeanine.
3/18 Off to First Creek where we climb Lotta Balls. We climb to the top and rappel/walk off. I'd recommend only doing the first two pitches and rappelling the route from there. After that, Josh and I get to toprope Rob Roy (5.10aR) thanks to Aramy's bold lead.
3/19 Sleep. Actual rest day. Grocery shopping. Buffet scouting. Students arrive. Gerry and Michelle arrive.
3/20 Ominous weather. We head to Ragged Edges with the whole class to give them an intro to Red Rock. I end up climbing Ok, Ok, Ok a few times. The students get to climb most of the pitches in the area.
3/21 Storms all night. Off to the Cannibal area for a day of anchor building and rappel practice. I convince Drew that the SUV locks when you press the "O" in "Sorento." This is almost certainly the highlight of my trip.
3/22 Climb Birdland with Ryan and Drew. Josh is right behind us with Madeline and Adam. Good thing they are behind us... Madeline's water breaks on this climb. I'd hate to be below her. We finish Birdland early enough to head to Cannibal where we climb A Man In Every Pot (5.8+) and Mac and Ronnie in Cheese (5.9+). Back at camp, we are having our instructor conference in the SUV when a knock at the window ("Help! Stove Fire!") announces the most serious blue sheet of the trip.
3/23 Climb Cat In The Hat with Heidi and Michelle. Chilly on the first pitch until we reach the sun.
3/24 Rain all night. Off to the hot springs with everyone and then to the Red Rock Casino dinner buffet.
3/25 60mph wind gusts. Josh's tent and Aramy's tarp are both damaged by the wind. We set anchors in the pavilion and practice rescue techniques. The weather improves and we head to Dark Corridor around noon. After getting a bunch of climbs there, I take Heidi, Michelle and Madeline to Magic Bus. We climb Electric Koolaid (5.9+), Neon Sunset (5.8), Technicolor Sunrise (5.8), and Ken Queasy (5.8).
3/26 Max, Madeline and Ryan are all suffering from a bout of apparent food poisoning. I take Heidi to Yin Yang and then to the airport for her flight. In the evening, I spend way too much time at the urgent care facility, the 24 hour pharmacy, and driving around looking for milkshakes at 2am.
3/27 We go to Caligula in the morning and do a mock lead of Ms. October (5.8) with Drew. Then across the valley to Conundrum to let Drew get a mock lead of Black Sheep (5.9). After that, everyone takes a go at Drilling Miss Daisy (5.11a) a well bolted overhanging jug haul. Done with the class, everyone departs for the airport. Everyone but me...
3/28 Rest day! Zoe and I check out the local library.
3/29 Eagle Dance! We wake at 4:30am and park on 159 outside the loop road. We are hiking by 5am. We take the direct 4th/5th class approach which goes pretty smoothly. At the base of the climb, we have sunny skies and perfect weather! I link p1 and p2 for a stellar long pitch. Zoe leads p3. I get p4 which is very sustained 5.10c face climbing. With 14 bolts in 90 feet of climbing, z-clipping is more of a concern than long falls. Zoe leads p5, and I get p6 which has some spicy moves above loose flakes and poor gear. This gets us to the base of p7 -- the bolt ladder. I lead the ladder and it goes pretty easily with just a pair of double length slings to use in lieu of etriers and daisies. I free the hard move between the bolt ladder and the anchor which feels like the crux of the climb to me. I lead p8 which is pretty sandbagged at 5.10b but well bolted. It is now our turnaround time of 3pm and we don't have any great desire to climb p9 which has a reputation for poor rock quality. So we start down. The rappels go very quickly and we are on the ground by 4:15pm. Not wanting to downclimb 5th class, we take the lower painted bowl descent which I had done the first time I climbed Black Orpheus. It was wet and tricky, and Oak Creek was full of water which made the going slow. We made it back to the car at 8:20pm. A long day and my longest climb ever wearing tight shoes (i.e. my feet hurt!) Definitely loved the climb! If I get on it again (or Levitation 29!) I'll do the walk-off which is supposed to be quite nice and doesn't take much longer than rappelling.
3/30 Rest day. This is how I like to climb... plenty of rest days!
3/31 We are now a team of three with the addition of Jack. It is hot and I'm intent on staying in the shade! We climb Dark Shadows, and I lead p3 easily this time. No slipping! Later in the day we climb Topless Twins on Brass Wall and Straight Shooter just as they are going into the shade. I back off Straight Shooter at the crux and make Jack take the lead. I get the climb clean on toprope, but it feels desperate and I'm glad to not have led it.
4/1 Still wanting to climb in the shade, we head to Sour Mash (5.10a). To avoid retying at every belay, we lead in blocks. I get p1, p2 and a very long p3 -- skipping the hanging belay in the sun and going to an anchor at a lovely shaded ledge. The best decision I make all week! Then Jack takes over and links p4 and p5, then leads the very strenuous (and well bolted) p6. Zoe takes us to the top leading p7. This is a stellar climb and makes for a great introduction to Black Velvet Canyon. Highly recommended!
4/2 Jack is off to get Ashley at the airport. Zoe and I climb Tunnel Vision (5.7+) with a late start to wait for the climb to get into the shade. I lead p1 and Zoe takes p2. I get p3 which is a fairly runout chimney pitch. Do not like! Zoe takes p4 to the base of the tunnel. I get to lead the tunnel pitch which is very, very cool. Then I lead p6 to the top of the cliff. We return to camp to share dinner with Jack and Ashley, then I take Zoe to the bus station so she can continue to Salt Lake City.
4/3 Jack and I swing leads on Johnny Vegas with Ashley climbing as our third. The ominous weather holds off, so we continue up from the big ledge climbing the two fun pitches of Going Nuts. From there we traverse to Solar Slab and rappel. Back at camp I take a bucket bath as best as I am able. We eat dinner and play a few hands of pitch in Jack's palace tent... the only time I play cards the entire trip. Having ticked that final item off the "to do" list, I head to the airport.
4/4 Red eye home to Ithaca. By noon I'm taking my first shower in over three weeks.
An awesome trip! Lots of new multipitch climbs... Birdland, Lotta Balls, Eagle Dance, Dark Shadows, Sour Mash, Tunnel Vision, Johnny Vegas and Going Nuts. In the end the one statistic that really matters: 84 pitches, 0 lead falls!
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My rack for the trip. I never ended up carrying the #6 on any climb. Ithaca, NY -- 3/12/2011 |
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On the plane with Josh. Somewhere over the United States -- 3/12/2011 |
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Josh getting off the plane in Las Vegas. Las Vegas, Nevada -- 3/12/2011 |
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Big Horn Sheep Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/13/2011 |
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Big Horn Sheep Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/13/2011 |
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Big Horn Sheep Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/13/2011 |
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Big Horn Sheep Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/13/2011 |
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Josh leading Go Ahead And Jump. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/13/2011 |
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Zoe at the top of Revoked. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/13/2011 |
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Dawn at Solar Slab. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/14/2011 |
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Josh, Zoe and Aramy on Solar Slab ledge. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/14/2011 |
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All four of us on Solar Slab ledge. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/14/2011 |
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Zoe on Solar Slab. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/14/2011 |
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Zoe on Solar Slab. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/14/2011 |
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Zoe leading a pitch on Solar Slab. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/14/2011 |
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Zoe following a pitch on Solar Slab. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/14/2011 |
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Zoe following a pitch on Solar Slab. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/14/2011 |
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Mescalito Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/15/2011 |
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Birdland Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/15/2011 |
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Josh almost done linking p1 and p2 on Dark Shadows. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/15/2011 |
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Ready to Jump Aramy belaying. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/15/2011 |
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Ready to Jump Aramy belaying. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/15/2011 |
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Side blotched lizard Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/15/2011 |
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Some really cool mineral deposits where the hot springs seeps from the canyon wall. Goldstrike Hot Springs, Nevada -- 3/16/2011 |
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Josh and some fearless ducks. Goldstrike Hot Springs, Nevada -- 3/16/2011 |
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Josh at the start of Frogland. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/17/2011 |
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Josh climbing Frogland. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/17/2011 |
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Zoe climbing Frogland. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/17/2011 |
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Zoe climbing Frogland. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/17/2011 |
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Zoe climbing Frogland. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/17/2011 |
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Me and Josh sharing a belay ledge. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/17/2011 |
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Zoe approaching the belay ledge. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/17/2011 |
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Aramy squeezing through the chockstone. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/17/2011 |
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Zoe almost at the top of Frogland. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/17/2011 |
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Aramy on the third pitch of Lotta Balls. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/18/2011 |
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Aramy on the third pitch of Lotta Balls. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/18/2011 |
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Aramy on the third pitch of Lotta Balls. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/18/2011 |
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Aramy on the third pitch of Lotta Balls. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/18/2011 |
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Aramy on the third pitch of Lotta Balls. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/18/2011 |
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We ran into Em and Leslie (or at least we heard them from a distance). This is Em pulling the roof of Black Magic. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/18/2011 |
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Aramy leading Roy Orbison. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/18/2011 |
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Aramy leading Roy Rogers. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/18/2011 |
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Aramy leading Rob Reiner. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/18/2011 |
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A full moon welcomes our students to Red Rock. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/19/2011 |
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Talking about cleaning gear at Ragged Edge. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/20/2011 |
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EARNESHT This is almost an EARNESHT anchor, except it fails H... Hornets. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/20/2011 |
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The external locking feature of our Kia SUV! Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/21/2011 |
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Anchor building lessons. Max, Madeline, Michelle, Heidi, Drew, Ryan and Adam all listening to Josh. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/21/2011 |
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Nice classroom! Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/21/2011 |
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Drew Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/21/2011 |
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Madeline Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/21/2011 |
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Josh leading p4 of Birdland. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/22/2011 |
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Heidi and Michelle on Cat In The Hat. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/23/2011 |
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Michelle on Cat In The Hat. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/23/2011 |
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The three of us at the top of Cat In The Hat. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/23/2011 |
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The Dartmouth crew we climbed with all day. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/23/2011 |
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Slings around a pillar. Bomber anchor as long as there is no upward pull. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/23/2011 |
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Heidi coming down. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/23/2011 |
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Ohmmmmm... Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/23/2011 |
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The trail leading down from the parking lot is probably solid fifth class. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/23/2011 |
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We should have belayed it, but instead opted for really solid spotting. How tall do you suppose those trees are? The ones near the creek in the background. Maybe you didn't get that far. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/23/2011 |
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Rescue techniques in the pavilion. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/25/2011 |
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Josh clipping the chains on The Heavy Hitter. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/25/2011 |
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Josh clipping the chains on The Heavy Hitter. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/25/2011 |
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Fauxhawk! Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/25/2011 |
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Fauxhawk! And to think this is only two weeks without showering. Wait until I hit three+ weeks! Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/25/2011 |
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Hahahaha!!! Lookin' Good! Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/25/2011 |
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Michelle getting her first lead on Neon Sunset. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/25/2011 |
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Heidi and the late afternoon sun. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/25/2011 |
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Michelle, Heidi and Madeline enjoying the beautiful colors. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/25/2011 |
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Quite the dramatic setting. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/25/2011 |
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Our tents were guyed out like crazy. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/25/2011 |
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Even so, Josh's tent ripped. Overall, we fared much much better than those who brought cheap and/or huge tents. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/25/2011 |
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Heidi on the way to Yin and Yang. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/26/2011 |
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Caution 7' 10" Clearance Question: What will your vehicle hit if it is taller than 7'10"?
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Ryan at Caligula. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/27/2011 |
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Chuckwalla! Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/27/2011 |
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Ryan on Drilling Miss Daisy. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/27/2011 |
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Ryan on Drilling Miss Daisy. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/27/2011 |
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Ryan on Drilling Miss Daisy. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/27/2011 |
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Ryan on Drilling Miss Daisy. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/27/2011 |
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Ryan on Drilling Miss Daisy. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/27/2011 |
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Josh on Drilling Miss Daisy. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/27/2011 |
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Josh on Drilling Miss Daisy. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/27/2011 |
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Josh on Drilling Miss Daisy. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/27/2011 |
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Drew on Drilling Miss Daisy. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/27/2011 |
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Aramy on Drilling Miss Daisy. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/27/2011 |
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Aramy on Drilling Miss Daisy. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/27/2011 |
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Dawn breaking on the hike to Eagle Dance. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/29/2011 |
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Dawn breaking on the hike to Eagle Dance. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/29/2011 |
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The Eagle. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/29/2011 |
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Eagle Wall Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/29/2011 |
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The IBM Boulder. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/29/2011 |
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Zoe coming up lower painted bowl. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/29/2011 |
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Climbers on Levitation 29. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/29/2011 |
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I've just finished leading pitch 4 of Eagle Dance. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/29/2011 |
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Perfect weather! I wore my nano puff at some of the belays, but just a t-shirt for all the climbing. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/29/2011 |
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Climbers on Levitation 29. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/29/2011 |
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Climbers on Levitation 29. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/29/2011 |
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High point on Eagle Dance at the top of pitch 8. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/29/2011 |
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Mamma big horn sheep with two babies. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/31/2011 |
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Mamma big horn sheep with two babies. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/31/2011 |
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Zoe leading p4 of Dark Shadows. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/31/2011 |
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Jack and Zoe at the top of p4 of Dark Shadows. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/31/2011 |
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Jack bouldering at the base of Dark Shadows. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/31/2011 |
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Jack bouldering at the base of Dark Shadows. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/31/2011 |
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Tiny falls at the base of Dark Shadows. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/31/2011 |
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Jack leading Topless Twins. Red Rock, Nevada -- 3/31/2011 |
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Jack leading a pitch of Sour Mash. Red Rock, Nevada -- 4/1/2011 |
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Graham leading Sour Mash. Red Rock, Nevada -- 4/1/2011 |
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Graham leading Sour Mash. Red Rock, Nevada -- 4/1/2011 |
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Graham leading Sour Mash. It is really hard to get pictures of your own team on a climb. So you rarely see pictures of me on a climb unless some other party takes them. Red Rock, Nevada -- 4/1/2011 |
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Graham leading Sour Mash. We rappelled Fiddler On The Roof, the next climb left, and had a great view of Sour Mash. Red Rock, Nevada -- 4/1/2011 |
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Kurt with his bail biner! One of the funniest stories of the week. I spot a bail biner on Fiddler after rappelling past it. So I point it out to Zoe and she grabs it. A nice Neutrino! By the Climber's Second Law Of Booty, Zoe touched the biner first, so she gets it. Talking to Kurt that evening in the campground, we learn that he had bailed on Fiddler two days earlier. Leaving a Neutrino? Yes! According to the Climber's Third Law Of Booty, Zoe is obligated to return the biner to its rightful owner. My best laugh of the week! Red Rock, Nevada -- 4/1/2011 |
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Looking down the tunnel on Tunnel Vision at Zoe belaying below. Red Rock, Nevada -- 4/2/2011 |
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Angel Food Wall with Tunnel Vision shown in blue. Red Rock, Nevada -- 4/2/2011 |
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Ashley on Johnny Vegas. Red Rock, Nevada -- 4/3/2011 |
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Ashley on Johnny Vegas. Red Rock, Nevada -- 4/3/2011 |
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Ashley and Jack on Johnny Vegas. Red Rock, Nevada -- 4/3/2011 |
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Jack leading Johnny Vegas. Red Rock, Nevada -- 4/3/2011 |
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Ringtailed Cat (Bassariscus astutus) actually a member of the raccoon family. Red Rock, Nevada -- 4/3/2011 |
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Ringtailed Cat Red Rock, Nevada -- 4/3/2011 |
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Ringtailed Cat. It stayed surprisingly close. Red Rock, Nevada -- 4/3/2011 |
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Ringtailed Cat. Comfortable enough with us to take a nap. Red Rock, Nevada -- 4/3/2011 |
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Ringtailed Cat. I was about 30' away, shooting with maximum zoom. Red Rock, Nevada -- 4/3/2011 |
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Trip booty collection. Sorry, not very impressive for three weeks... Red Rock, Nevada -- 4/4/2011 |