Rock Climbing --- 5/22/2006 - 5/24/2006 --- Gunks

Climbing for three days at the Gunks. Ryan and I were doing a shakedown run for our summer trip. Monday we left Ithaca at 6am and drove to the Gunks. We did a repeat of my April 2005 aid climbing day with Joe. First I led Twilight Zone. This is one insane roof. It goes free at 5.13b and the aid line is supposedly 5.4 C2. Though with all the fixed gear it is hardly C2. I had to place only two pieces the entire route. Ryan and I hauled a bag up both pitches just to practice that.

We finished the day with Ryan leading Kansas City and me following. Good day. With proper equipment (ascenders and etriers) it was much easier than when I did it with Joe. Though still hard. Exhausted, we crashed at camp slime just as the sun set.

Tuesday we did some hard free climbing. Started the day with Birdland, one of my favorite Gunks climbs. I led the first pitch which I had never led before. Was surprised to discover that it felt really, really easy. Ryan had no problems leading the second pitch. Then Ryan had a shot at Birdcage, a tough route nearby. He very nearly led it onsight, but had to take one hang just before the crux. I tried my absolute hardest to follow it cleanly, but came off on the crux because I didn't spot a key foothold after grabbing the jug above the roof. Got it on my second try. After that we took a shot at Grand Central. I couldn't believe how easy it felt. I spent the entire 5.9 pitch waiting for the hard moves. Was really psyched to be climbing strong.

Since Tuesday went so well, I decided to continue to push on Wednesday. Our first climb was Criss Cross Direct. I really wanted my first 5.10 onsight at the Gunks. Nearly got it. I led to the rap station with no falls or hangs, but I did step on the pin above the crux. No accident, I needed that foot to stay on the climb. Better than taking a fall. Above the rap station the climb is very run out. Probably no harder than 5.8, but seriously R rated, and the holds aren't obvious. My only piece was a black alien. I was above that by a bit and looking at no more protection for 15' with delicate climbing the whole way. Not willing to risk injury, I hung on the alien to gather my wits. It held with a scary bit of shifting. The moves back to the rap station were hard to reverse, but I didn't trust the alien for lowering, so I did a rope assisted downclimb. Lowered off the rap station and gave Ryan a shot. He got to the alien and agreed with my assessment. So he came down and we were done with Criss Cross Direct.

We finished the day with Inverted Layback. Ryan managed an excellent lead of the first pitch. And he protected the crux with the black alien, so that piece was 2 for 2 during the day. I couldn't pull the crux move because my left hand won't turn palm up. So I just can't undercling the layback holds. I tried some heinous offwidth technique with a left foot and left arm wedged in the crack. Nearly reached the jug with my right hand, but couldn't do it. So I needed a rope assist to reach out to the jug. Guess I was 0 for 2 for the day (though I was actually really happy with my performance on Criss Cross Direct). I ran up the last pitch and we walked off.

Needed to be back to Ithaca by 7pm, so we were done for the day. Went to Rock and Snow so Ryan could buy ascenders. Also got beta for the top of Criss Cross Direct (goes about 5.8, no gear, just move up and the holds will be there... pretty much what I thought, but not something I wanted to try). Then back to Ithaca.

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