Rock Climbing --- 5/7/2006 - 5/9/2006 --- Gunks

Climbing for two days at the Gunks. Jason, Adam, Katie and I drove down Sunday night and stayed at the DEC. Monday was a beautiful day. Jason and I decided it was a "Nemesis" day. First we climbed Something Interesting which was Jason's first lead fall. He had been wanting to get back on the climb for two years. Of course, he led it with no problem. We were going to attempt The Dangler, but there was a Black Vulture jealously guarding the climb.

Next we got on Directissima. I followed Jerry cleanly on this climb the first time I was on it about three years ago. Then last year I attempted to lead the climb and fell on the opening move (the 5.8 ramp). That wigged me out and I bailed. This year I was nervous at the start of the ramp, but it really is pretty easy. I led the whole climb cleanly and felt strong the whole way. Great climb!

The final nemesis wasn't mine or Jason's. We got on P38 which Tammy had to lower off the week before. So it was somebody's nemesis. The opening moves were very hard. I was going to bail when Ryan walked by with a pad posse. Two crash pads and a good spot got me up to the first big pod. I placed a yellow alien down low which used up what is apparently the key handhold. For a G-rated climb, the opening moves don't protect very well. With much hanging and whimpering, I managed to get all the way up the climb. People apparently belay from the completely dead tree at the top of the climb. Seems crazy to me. I continued to the top of the cliff and belayed Jason from there. I was totally psyched to make it to the top. This was my first time ever attempting to lead a 5.10 at the Gunks that I had never climbed before. I didn't get the onsight, but I did finish the climb.

Monday night Carla arrived with Sylvan. Tuesday morning Carla and I had a "Classic" day. We climbed Strictly From Nowhere to Shockley's Ceiling and then Madame G's neither of which Carla had climbed before. We were slowed a bit by the party ahead of us on Madame G's, so only had a bit of time left before we were supposed to meet everyone. We were going to put a toprope on the Gerdie Block, but on the way there we saw Katie and Adam with a toprope on Phoebe. It was actually sprinkling a bit while we climbed this fun crimpfest. I got it cleanly, which means I've now climbed Phoebe cleanly in the rain and at night (back when I climbed it a few years ago). Fun stuff.

The rain picked up a bit, so we did too. Drove straight back to Ithaca and was home by 9:30pm.

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