Rock Climbing --- 4/16/2005 - 4/17/2005 --- Gunks

Spent the weekend at the Gunks with Jen. Weather was 65-75 and sunny both days. On Saturday we started with the Finger Locks or Cedar Box variation of Northern Pillar. Then we went to climb Credibility Gap. We started on CG and finished on CG, but climbed most of Asphodel in the middle when I was off route. As we went to rappel from the tree left of CG, we realized that one rope wouldn't reach the ground, and there was no obvious intermediate rappel station. So we topped out on the cliff (which was quite a bushwhack climb) and went down the Snooky's rappel.

After that we headed over to the Uberfall and met up with Joe, Jerry, Sarah, Shern, Kyle, Jeanine, Peter and Alana who were all climbing at the Gunks this weekend. We set a toprope on Red Cabbage Right which both Jen and I climbed. Jerry led Nosedive and I took a run up it on toprope. In all my years climbing at the Gunks, I had never tried Nosedive. I really wanted to climb it cleanly, especially since I was on toprope. Unfortunately, I suck. I took one hang near the top (and past the crux) for no apparent reason. Sigh. I'm sure I can climb it cleanly, and I'm pretty sure I can lead it.

We broke down the anchors by headlamp. Then Jen and I went off to the multi-abuse area to eat dinner and sleep. There was some loud band playing until 2am, but I was so exhausted that I slept soundly from the moment I entered my sleeping bag until the sun hit me in the morning.

Sunday we went over to the Nears. The rest of the crew was there, with Joe getting ready to aid Kansas City and Kyle preparing to climb it free. Becky and Burk also showed up and were looking for an unoccupied climb. Jen and I hiked about 20 minutes down the Nears to Main Line. This is the last three star route (in Gunks Select) below 5.9 at the Trapps or Nears that I hadn't climbed. So I was psyched to have a chance at it. Had trouble finding the climb since I had never been down that far at the Nears. A very nice couple showed it to us, and they hopped on it. The second was very slow -- very, very slow -- on the first pitch. I didn't really mind since I was enjoying the beautiful day. But it did keep us from getting much climbing done. Finally they finished and rapped off the first pitch. I led and Jen followed the first pitch no problem. I led the second pitch which has some long, strenuous reaches through a series of overhangs. Jen gave it a valiant effort, but couldn't pull the moves. I lowered her back to the belay and cleaned the route while lowering. Jen had to be back in Ithaca by 6pm, so after finishing Main Line, we gathered our stuff and started out. Picking up Jeanine and Jerry, the four of us drove back to Ithaca.

Jen climbing (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Jen climbing    Gunks -- 4/16/2005 - 4/17/2005

Happy Jen (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Happy Jen    Gunks -- 4/16/2005 - 4/17/2005

Jen on rappel (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Jen on rappel    Gunks -- 4/16/2005 - 4/17/2005

Did you squeeze through here? (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Did you squeeze through here?    Gunks -- 4/16/2005 - 4/17/2005

Yeah, just crawled through. (Category:  Rock Climbing)

Yeah, just crawled through.    Gunks -- 4/16/2005 - 4/17/2005