Types of Climbing

I. Rock Climbing

A. Free Climbing - The ropes and other gear are used only to protect the climber in the event of a fall.  The climber makes upward progress using only the rock.

1. Unroped Climbing

a. Bouldering - Climbing low to the ground so a fall doesn't cause significant injury.  Foam pads and multiple spotters are used to protect climbers from injury.

b. Free Soloing - Climbing very high without a rope.  Many proponents of this style of climbing are now dead.

2. Roped Climbing

a. Toprope - The rope goes up from the climber to an anchor above.  If the climber falls, the fall is immediately arrested by the rope.

b. Lead Climbing - The climber is tied into a rope and anchors the rope to the cliff periodically while climbing.  If the climber falls, the climber falls the distance to the highest anchor, then the same amount of distance past that anchor before being arrested by the rope.  Lead falls can generate up to 4000 lbs of force, and would generate more if climbing ropes didn't stretch to minimize the maximum load on the anchor.

1. Sport Climbing - Lead climbing where the rope is anchored to permanent bolts in the cliff as the climber progresses.

2. Traditional (Trad) Climbing - Lead climbing where the climber places removable bits of metal in the cliff to anchor the rope.  The pieces are removed by the second climber.

B. Aid Climbing - The climber uses the rope and gear to ascend the cliff and rest.

II.  Ice Climbing - Using crampons and ice axes to ascend frozen water.

III. Mixed Climbing - Ascending sections of rock while ice climbing.

Rock Climbing Ratings

Class 1 - Off trail hiking and scrambling on a gradient.

Class 2 - Steeper than class 1 and may involve the use of hands for stability.

Class 3 - Moderately exposed terrain.  Hands may be required for upward progress.

Class 4 - Exposed terrain where a fall would cause serious injury or death.  Roped belays may be used for protection.  Climbing requires hands and feet, but is not usually difficult.  Fourth class climbing can be very dangerous because it is often done without ropes.  A single slip or mistake can have serious consequences.

Class 5 - Rock faces near vertical to overhanging.  Requires rope, harness, safety gear and proper training.  Ascending class 1 - 4 terrain is scrambling.  Ascending class 5 terrain is technical rock climbing.

In the United States, class 5 climbs are rated 0 to 15 using the Yosemite Decimal System.  The higher the decimal number the harder the climb.  Climbs from 5.0 to 5.9 may have a + or - appended to the grade to indicate relative difficulty.  Climbs from 5.10 to 5.15 have the letters a-d appended to subdivide difficulty ranges.  Hence ratings like 5.5 and 5.7+ and 5.11d.  Climbing ratings are subjective and depend on many factors.  Further, the ratings tend to vary across climbing areas and even within a climbing area.

Trad climbs are also rated in terms of how easy they are to protect with gear.  G, PG, R and X are often used in the United States to express the severity of a fall that a competent climber might take.  G climbs allow the leader to place secure gear every 5 feet.  PG climbs may have longer falls, but don’t expose the leader to serious injury.  R climbs expose the climber to possible injury.  X is death.  Falling is not an option.

Class 5 climbs also may have a grade attached.  Grades I & II are short climbs with easy approaches.  Grade III is a longer more remote climb.  Grade IV will take a competent party all day.  Grade V is a 2 day climb.  Grade VI is more than 2 days.  Grade VII climbs are multi-week commitments in remote locations.

Class 6 - Aid climbing.  Rated A0-A6 in terms of the difficulty placing gear and finding belays.  Also expressed as C1-C6 for aid that goes clean (no hammers or pitons needed).