WARNING: THIS LIST IS BY NO MEANS COMPREHENSIVE.  IT IS ALSO NOT GOING TO TEACH YOU HOW TO LEAD.  LEADING
TRAD CLIMBS -- ESPECIALLY AT THE GUNKS -- IS HARDER THAN YOU THINK.  LEARN BEFORE YOU GO.



Good first leads at the Gunks:
Minty
Three Pines
Finger Locks or Cedar Box
Bunny
Black Fly
Horseman
Jackie
RMC

All are fun 5.3 to 5.5 climbs with decent gear the whole way.  I'd also suggest leading Beginner's Delight
(the last pitch is the best 5.3 on the planet), but the first two belay anchors are tricky and some people
have trouble with routefinding.

A tip for leading at the Gunks:  Carry one screamer and place it on the first fixed piece or piton you encounter
on each pitch.  Also, learn to place nuts in vertical cracks and tricams in horizontal cracks.  Don't depend exclusively
on cams for protection.




Next, start leading some classic 5.6 climbs.  You may have to place gear from a stance or pull a bit at the
crux moves.  The thing to be thinking about here is integrating your climbing with your leading.  You need
to be climbing gracefully and efficiently and easily, but still be paying attention to your next placement
and where the route wanders.  Consider these climbs:
High Exposure
Double Chin
Arch (finish on Wrist)
Frog's Head
Madame G's
Maria
Shockley's Ceiling
Ken's Crack (5.7, but very very good protection)
Rhododendron
Laurel (get a good spot for the opening move which is 5.8, the rest of the climb is 5.6)

Also, Layback and Disneyland at the Nears.



Once you feel solid with those, I've got some great 5.7s for you to lead:  Strictly From Nowhere (don't take a
long fall in the overhung corner), Something Interesting, Cakewalk, Classic, City Lights and V-3.  5.7 is also
where the Nears finally gets interesting with Baskerville Terrace, Te Dum and Yellow Ridge (get a bouldering pad
to protect the 5.9R start).  Then you get to 5.8 which is the best grade at the Gunks.  Test yourself on Arrow
which has one 5.8 move protected by bolts, then lead the megaclassics -- Birdland (do the direct finish on pitch 2),
Son of Easy O, Three Doves and Modern Times -- all but Son of Easy O are actually 5.8+ which sometimes feels like
5.10.  If you can lead Modern Times and Birdland you are definitely ready to break into 5.9 climbing.  Ant's Line
is everybody's first 5.9 with great gear though a bit pumpy.  Sente, Grand Central and Roseland are soft 5.9s to
gauge your climbing, though Grand Central is a bit runout through the crux.  Then you are ready to tick Bonnie's
Roof (again do the direct finish), CCK Direct and Directissima -- all are spectacular.



Ready to start the 10s?  Never Never Land is like Arrow bumped up two grades -- the crux is a slab move protected with
a shiny new bolt.  Criss Cross Direct is a nice soft 5.10, though the crux comes low.  MF is rated 5.9, but the first
pitch is more like 5.10, especially if you head straight up after pulling the overhanging corner.  P38 is stiff but
very G rated as long as you bring a bouldering pad for the opening moves (hint: find the secret handhold).  Nosedive
has reasonable protection and decent rests.  Retribution has one hard move which is well protected by a green alien.



One last list -- climbs to avoid until you are solid at the grade.  These climbs have low and hard to protect cruxes.
They are good climbs, but you should be solid at the grade before you attempt them.  Beware... this list is not
comprehensive:

Classic
Laurel
Drunkard's Delight
Morning After
Snooky's Return 
Son of Easy O
Apoplexy
Layback
Broken Sling (I call this climb Broken Ankle)
Herdie Gerdie
P38
Yellow Ridge 

Google