Peter's Kill, Minnewaska
Location: Route 44/55, west of New Paltz
Height: 40'
Quality: Excellent
Dogs: Scrambling at right half of cliffs is tough
Water: Everyone drinks from the spring at Gunks/Uberfalls without
treating the water. Plenty of creeks to treat including
one at the DEC (dry during droughts).
Hike: None
Crowds: Generally uncrowded
Fee: $5 for a day pass
Camping: DEC campground on 299 towards New Paltz
Guide: none
Climbed: Most of the climbs on toprope. Leads of my first outdoor climb,
first outdoor lead, and Sheep's Roof
Notes: About one mile of cliffs, excellent toproping, leading
is possible.
The Gunks (Shawangunks)
Location: Route 44/55, west of New Paltz
Height: 300'
Quality: Excellent
Dogs: Crowds are annoying. Don't tie dogs while doing a long multipitch
(and there is not much toproping)
Water: Everyone drinks from the spring at the Uberfall without
treating the water. Plenty of creeks to treat including
one at the DEC (dry during droughts). (Lost City: None
past the treatable creek near the parking lot, bring plenty)
Water can be had at the visitor's center even when it is closed.
There is a spigot on the outside, lower level. You may need a
wrench to open the spigot.
Hike: 3 to 20 minutes down the carriage road (Lost City: 20 minutes)
Crowds: Lots, especially weekends (Lost City: Generally uncrowded)
Fee: $10 to climb for a day, $85 for annual pass
Camping: DEC campground on 299 towards New Paltz, camp slime at the Gunks
Guide: Todd Swain and Dick Williams both published guides.
Gunks Select by Williams is a good place to start.
New Williams guide to the Trapps just published in 2005
Climbed: Over 100 climbs. See tick list in guide book
Notes: The place to climb on the East Coast
Little Falls
Location: I-90, exit 29A, North on 169 (Moss Island on Left just before
Erie Canal) to 5 East, in ~0.5 miles make a right at the
bottom of the hill. Another right at the T and drive to end
of road. Dihedrals are just across the train tracks.
Height: 70' (Moss Island: 30')
Quality: Ok
Dogs: Must be leashed due to trains.
Water: Canal water could be treated.
Hike: None
Crowds: None
Fee: $3 for Moss Island (pay at police station), Dihedrals are free
Camping: ?
Guide: An old typeset guide exists. The Cornell Outing Club used
to have a copy.
Climbed: Dihedrals and a bunch of short climbs on Moss Island
Notes: A few great climbs at Dihedrals make this a good day trip.
Carderock
Location: 495 to exit 41(?) follow signs to Carderock
Height: 25'
Quality: Ok
Dogs: Must be leashed due to crowds
Water: Potomac water could be treated.
Hike: None
Crowds: Lots, plenty of instructional climbing
Fee: None
Camping: ?
Guide: Printed guides exist
Climbed: A few topropes, and some boulder problems
Notes: Short climbs, big crowds, uncontrolled children throwing rocks
Great Falls
Location: 495 to exit 13 follow signs to Great Falls
Height: 50'
Quality: Good
Dogs: Scramble to base of climbs is generally prohibitive
Water: Potomac water could be treated.
Hike: 5 minutes
Crowds: Can be crowded on weekends.
Fee: Park fee ($3 or $5?) season pass available.
Camping: ?
Guide: PATC has a guide which was just re-released (end of 2000).
This version was edited by Alex Tait. There is another printed
guide for sale. It has nice pictures of the tops of climbs which
makes locating the climbs easier.
Climbed: A bunch of topropes
Notes: Gear theft a real problem here
Crescent Rocks
Location: Past Leesburg to AT trailhead (near Purcellville), hike north
Parking area on south side of route 7 where AT crosses.
Take Dulles toll road north (west?) to Leesburg. Take 7 West
to trailhead. Other option is to take 7 west for about 17 or
18 miles from the toll road. Make a right on 601. Stay on
this for a few miles until it becomes a dirt road. Just after
it becomes a dirt road look for another dirt road on the left.
This road is gated, but you can hike down it to the radio tower,
then turn left and walk a few hundred yards to the cliffs. Note
that the radio tower road is closed and there are No Parking
signs on 601 opposite the road, but people tend to park there
anyhow. Can always drop people off at radio tower road and
have one person hike/bike from AT trailhead.
Height: 50'
Quality: Good
Dogs: Good
Water: ?? Better have plenty
Hike: Strenuous hour hike from AT trailhead.
Easy 10 minute hike along radio tower road.
Crowds: Not very (?)
Fee: None
Camping: Anywhere off AT
Guide: ?
Climbed: Most of the topropes there
Notes: Tends to be hotter than surrounding area.
Seneca Rocks
Location: West Virginia at intersection of routes 28 and 33
Height: 250'
Quality: Excellent
Dogs: Scrambles are tough but doable, not much toproping
Water: ?? Better have plenty
Hike: Strenuous 40 minutes
Crowds: Lots of people, but over a big area
Fee: None
Camping: Seneca Shadows Campground One mile south of town on Rt. 33. US
Forest Service campground. Hot showers, electric hookups, group
campsites, walk-ins welcome. Reservations up to seven days in
advance. 1-800-280-2267 or www.reserveusa.com
Guide: Published guides exist
Climbed: A bunch of climbs including Castor, Le Gourmet, Ecstasy, Conn's East and Thais
Notes: Very cool, many hundreds of climbs, fantastic leads, amazing views
Little Stony Man
Location: Skyline Drive, mile marker 39. (use Thorton Gap entrance)
Hike South on the AT for less than 1/2 mile to an intersection with
the Passamaquoddy Trail. The top of the crags is reached via the AT,
and the bottom via the Passamaquoddy.
Height: 90'
Quality: Good
Dogs: Need to be leashed because base is right on trail
Water: ??
Hike: 15 minutes
Crowds: Not bad (?)
Fee: $10(?) per car to get into Shenandoah. Annual pass available.
Camping: Backcountry permits are free. Ask at park entrance.
Guide: ?
Climbed: Some long topropes.
Notes: Wet rock the one time I was there, some loose rock
Annapolis Rocks
Location: US-40 just SE of where it crosses I-70 is a trailhead
for the AT. Hike 40 minutes North on AT. Take marked
spur trail left.
Height: 50'
Quality: Good
Dogs: Good
Water: Spring nearby was flowing during peak of 1999 summer drought
Hike: 40 minutes
Crowds: Not very (?)
Fee: None
Camping: Highly impacted camping area at top of cliffs
Guide: http://www.bcpl.net/~indy/climbing/guide.html
Climbed: Bunch of topropes. Black Crack on toprope, attempted on lead
Notes: Tends to be cooler than surrounding area.
Ilchester and Friction Rock
Location: From Ellicot City head East on Fredrick Road towards Baltimore
about 3 miles (if you hit Rolling Rd and a seafood bar/restaurant,
you have gone too far). Take a right onto Hill Top Rd -- follow
along Hill Top Rd until you come to a left bend in the road and
what looks like a small trailhead to your left and park there
(if you drive over the crest of the hill, you have gone too far).
There will be a small brown "Patapsco State Park" sign at the
begining of the trail as well as some power lines. Follow the
trail about 200 ft. and you will arrive at the top of the crag.
Height: 30'
Quality: Good
Dogs: Good
Water: None
Hike: 0.25 mile
Crowds: Small area, so anyone else there could be a problem
Fee: None
Camping: None
Guide: http://www.bcpl.net/~indy/climbing/guide.html
Climbed: Some short topropes.
Notes: Rumors of unfriendly locals. Watch your anchors.
Sugarloaf Mountain, MD (Summit Rocks)
Location: I-270 North to exit 22.
Exit to MD-109 West to Comus.
Drive West on MD-109 approx 3 miles to an intersection with MD-95,
a.k.a Comus Road. The intersection is just past Comus Inn.
Turn right (north) onto route 95 and drive approx 2 miles to a
circular intersection (I can't describe it any other way).
Look for a narrow private road on the right that leads to the
mountain.
Drive approx 1.5 miles up hill on the private road to a large
parking lot. Note: Do not stop at the Devil's Kitchen
parking area, continue on past the D.K. parking until you come
to a traffic circle - like intersection. Bear right to the
parking lot.
This is the West View parking lot. It is the point on the road
nearest to the summit.
Follow the green blazed trail to the cliffs.
Height: 50'
Quality: Excellent
Dogs: Good, but close to the trail
Water: None
Hike: 0.25 mile
Crowds: Not bad
Fee: None
Camping: None
Guide: http://www.bcpl.net/~indy/climbing/guide.html
Climbed: A bunch of topropes. Some good first lead climbs here.
Notes: Better than Carderock and Great Falls for "close to DC" climbing.
Sugarloaf Mountain, MD (White Rocks)
Location: I-270 North to exit 22. Follow signs to Sugarloaf. At the
5-way intersection, continue straight. Road becomes dirt.
Drive about 2 miles, stay right at all intersections. Park
at trailhead about 100 yards past a sharp left, just past
a stream crossing the road. Parking is very limited.
Hike along the blue blazed trail for about 15 minutes until
you reach the top of the cliffs.
Height: 40'
Quality: Good; only a few climbs.
Dogs: Good
Water: None (except at the parking area)
Hike: About 15 minutes.
Crowds: Minimal
Fee: None
Camping: None
Guide: http://www.bcpl.net/~indy/climbing/guide.html
Climbed: A bunch of topropes
Notes: Lots of broken glass. Even more than usual.
Caudey's Castle
Location: In West Virginia, out west of Winchester, VA. Don't know
exactly how to get there.
Height: 30' to 200'
Quality: Excellent. Good toproping. Nice trad and sport leads around
the back side. 60m rope is helpful.
Dogs: Good with permission of owner.
Water: Some streams a hike away. Just carry your water in.
Hike: 30 minutes unless you can get the key to the gate in which case
you can drive to the climbs (4WD recommended)
Crowds: Minimal
Fee: None
Camping: None
Guide: ?
Climbed: A few sport routes
Notes: Private land. Need to get permission from owner. I don't have
contact information.
Shaffer Rocks/Hermitage
Location: Take I-270 North to Frederick
Take US-15 to MD-550 (past Thurmond)
550 North to PA, reach T-intersection in Blue Ridge Summit, PA
Turn left to PA-16 and drive West 3 miles to Waynesboro.
Turn right and head North on Old Forge Road for 5 miles, passing
Camp Penn, then another 0.5 miles to Michaux State Forest
unpaved road (Swift Run Road).
Drive <1 mile North on Swift Run to a 90 degree left turn. Notice
the blue blazed trailhead and parking on outside of turn. Park
and hike 3 minutes to the top of the rocks.
Height: 40'
Quality: good
Dogs: good, watch for glass
Water: none, but close to car
Hike: 3 minutes
Crowds: can be crowded
Fee: None
Camping: On AT near Hermitage cabin
Guide: I've got a map with descriptions of 21 climbs. PDF file.
Climbed: Most of the topropes
Notes: climbs tend to be cool in the summer
Maryland Heights - Harper's Ferry
Location: I-270 to 340 into Harper's Ferry. Cross the Potomac into
VA, cross the Shenandoah into WV. Head into Harper's Ferry
National Park. Right at the confluence of the Shenandoah
and Potomac there is a pair of railroad bridges over the
Potomac. The tracks go through a tunnel. Above and left of
the tunnel is the climbing area. Cross the footbridge along
the tracks, then scamble up to the climbs.
Height: Up to 200'
Quality: Fair. Plenty of loose rocks. All bolts are old 1/4"
Dogs: Poor. Mostly lead climbing.
Water: Back at visitor's center.
Hike: 10 minutes
Crowds: Lots of people in the park, but few climbers.
Fee: None. But you _MUST_ register at the visitor's center in the park.
Camping: See guide
Guide: http://www.dtek.chalmers.se/Climbing/Guidebooks/NorthAmerica/Baltimore/MarylandHeights.html
Climbed: Led the route on the sign
Notes: Closest multi-pitch climbing to DC
New River Gorge
Location: Fayetteville, WV
Height: Mostly single pitch. Some two and three pitch climbs.
Quality: Excellent.
Dogs: Unsure. Some difficult approaches.
Water: River.
Hike: Depends.
Crowds: Can be avoided.
Fee: None. As of 5/2008 permits are required at Bubba City?
Camping: Several options. Roger's Rocky Top is popular with climbers. $6/person/night.
Stone Cliff campground is free and quite nice. 20 miles from the bridge though.
Guide: Several guide books exist. The Third Edition of Steve Cater's is the book I've used recently.
Climbed: Some trad route in 2001. Climbed at Bubba City and Kaymoor in 2006, and again in 2008.
Notes: Known for sport climbing. Tons of sport routes. Plenty of
trad too. Not much climbing below 5.10.
Red River Gorge
Location: Southeast of Winchester, KY. Parkway exit 33 (route 11).
Height: Plenty of multi-pitch.
Quality: Sandstone. Plenty of routes.
Dogs: Many crags are remote and uncrowded with single pitch climbs.
Water: At the JW service area off the parkway. Also plenty of rivers.
Hike: Depends.
Crowds: Can be avoided.
Fee: None.
Camping: Daniel Boone Forest. $3 per car per night. But everyone stays
at Miguel's. $2/person/night.
Guide: Guide books exist. Also www.redriverclimbing.com
Climbed: Three days in 2001, a week in 2005, and a week in 2006, a week in 2007
Notes: Tons of areas with tons of routes. Beautiful forest.
Old Rag
Location: To Ridge Trail, near Nethers: From Washington D.C., take
Interstate 66 to Gainesville, then 211 west to Sperryville. A little
left-right jiggle through town will lead to U.S. 522. After 0.3 miles,
turn right onto State Route 231. Stay with this for 8 miles until a right
turn sign marks Old Rag. This road will change names several times: 601,
602, 700. Keep going and stay right. On weekdays you can use the upper
lot, and on weekends you can ask the rangers to let you drop off your
packs there. Otherwise, there is a 1.2 mile slog up the road from the
lower lot to the trail head. To Saddle Trail, Near White Oak Canyon:
Begin same as for Ridge Trail approach, but go 8 miles further on State
Route 231. Turn right onto State Route 643 at Etlan, and right onto State
Route 600 at the sign for White Oak Canyon. Continue to the end.
Height: single and some multi-pitch climbing
Quality: Excellent. Very high friction granite.
Dogs: not allowed on Old Rag, tough scramble in any event
Water: The USGS 15 minute quad for Old Rag (available on-line at
www.esri.com/data/online/) shows a spring on the ridge, but it only
runs when there has been significant rain within a few weeks. The
spring is located at about the midpoint of the PATC Wall, but on the
opposite side of the ridge, about 30 yards from the trail. It is down
slope and east of the large very low angle slab. There is no reliable
trail, but it is not hard to find if you climb on a high boulder and
look around. There are also springs lower on the trail (by one of the
day shelters).
Hike: Long approach on a nice trail
Crowds: Old Rag trail is very crowded, but the climbs themselves tend
to be pretty empty.
Fee: Shenandoah Park Permit/Fee
Camping: Plenty in SNP, but avoid Old Rag itself. Camping not allowed on
Old Rag above 2800'
Guide: http://www.contactclimbinggear.com/guide_to_old_rag/guide_to_old_rag_all.htm
Climbed: Rusty Bong and some others
Notes: Many people bring tape for the cracks.
Chickies Rock
Location: SE Pennsylvania. Take I-83N to exit #9 (beware of exit
renumbering). This should be route 30. Take route 30 East to
Columbia (about 13 miles). Exit at route 441. Take 441 North for approx.
2 miles to bottom of hill. Park in front of grassy area on the left.
Follow trail along edge of woods to abandoned railroad bed. Northwest
pillar is at this point with some face climbing about 100yds to the
left on the railroad bed. Look for the developed area with a picnic
table and wood chips at the base.
We had some trouble finding the parking spot the first time through.
You come over a hill and break out into a field on the left followed
by a bridge over a small river. The trail to the rock is on the south
side of this field and there is a small parking area there. It is also
easy to park across the bridge on a side road (there may be a train
track there) and hike. In any case, there is a trail along the river
that's pretty easy to follow. Head down stream (south) and you can't
miss the cliffs.
You can also park at the main park entrance. This is about 1/4 mile
south of the climbing parking area and has typical wooden park signs.
Walk to the river, then upstream from this parking lot to reach the
cliffs.
Height: Up to 200'. Mostly single pitch, some two pitch climbs.
Quality: Pretty good, but much of the cliffs are not climbed often
and are quite overgrown.
Dogs: Active train tracks nearby. Lots of people passing on the
hiking/biking trail. Access very easy, but leashes are
essential.
Water: Close to car.
Hike: 5 minutes
Crowds: Sees a steady stream of people, but not crowded.
Fee: Free
Camping:
Guide:
Climbed: Some topropes
Notes: Good boulder problems just north of the main climbing area.
Lots of sun and no shade at the main climbing area.
Santee
Location: San Diego
Height: Mostly bouldering. Few topropes.
Quality: Good granite
Dogs: Probably ok
Water: None
Hike: 3 minutes
Crowds: Not bad
Fee: None
Camping: None
Guide: San Diego Climbers Association, online
Climbed: Bunch of boulder problems
Notes:
Woodson
Location: San Diego
Height: Boulder problems and short topropes
Quality: Tons of rocks to explore. Good granite
Dogs: Probably ok
Water: None
Hike: 3 minutes to base, 20 minutes to top of hill
Crowds: None
Fee: None
Camping: None
Guide: San Diego Climbers Association, online
Climbed: Bunch of short topropes and boulder problems
Notes:
Joshua Tree
Location: California
Height: Up to 300'
Quality: All granite. Some exfoliating, some good.
Dogs: National Park?
Water: None. Bring plenty to the desert.
Hike: 2 minutes to 30 minutes
Crowds: Can be crowded in the winter
Fee: Park entrance, $15/week. Camping $5/site/night
Camping: Car camping in park
Guide: Several of them, also climbingjtree.com
Climbed: Three days in 2003 + eight days in 2007
Monaco, Coyote in the Bushes, My Senior Project,
Walk on the Wild Side, The Kid, ...
Notes:
Flatirons
Location: Boulder
Height: Up to 1000'
Quality: Excellent
Dogs: Not practical
Water: None
Hike: 30 minutes to 3 hours
Crowds: On popular routes
Fee: None
Camping: None
Guide: Books exist. Also climbingboulder.com
Climbed: 1st Flatiorn, first two pitches on The Maiden
Notes:
Garden of the Gods
Location: Colorado Springs
Height: Up to 300'
Quality: Sandstone of various quality, some poor
Dogs: Ok on leash (?)
Water: Visitor's center
Hike: 2 minutes
Crowds: Lots of tourists
Fee: None
Camping: None
Guide: Books exist. Also climbingboulder.com
Climbed: Montezuma's Tower, Sliver Spoon
Notes:
Eldorado Canyon
Location: Boulder
Height: Up to 700'
Quality: Excellent sandstone. Some chossy sections
Dogs: Ok on short climbs
Water: River
Hike: Belay from car bumper on some, 45 minutes on others
Crowds: Heavy on weekends
Fee: $5
Camping: None
Guide: Books exist. Also climbingboulder.com
Climbed: Rewritten, Yellow Spur, Calypso, Wind Ridge, Bastille Crack
Notes:
Boulder Canyon
Location: Boulder
Height: Lots of toproping, lots of short multipitch
Quality: Granite!
Dogs: Ok when toproping easy approaches
Water: River
Hike: Varies. Plenty of short approaches.
Crowds: Can be crowded, but a short hike helps
Fee: None
Camping: None
Guide: Books exist. Also climbingboulder.com
Climbed: Topropes at Happy Hour Crag in 2004, lead climbs at three other crags in 2007
Notes:
Colorado National Monument
Location: Grand Junction
Height: Up to 400'
Quality: Soft sandstone
Dogs: Not allowed
Water: None. Carry lots.
Hike: 90 minutes to Independence Monument
Crowds: Minimal
Fee: None
Camping: Anywhere.
Guide: Books exist. Also climbingboulder.com
Climbed: Otto's Route on Independence Monument
Notes:
Fisher Towers
Location: Route 128 outside Moab
Height: 20' topropes to grade IV big walls
Quality: Soft sandstone
Dogs: Ok for topropes
Water: None. Bring lots.
Hike: 45 minutes
Crowds: Ancient Art crowded on weekends.
Fee: None
Camping: Car camping, $10/night
Guide: Books exist. Also climbingmoab.com
Climbed: Ancient Art
Notes:
Arches National Park
Location: Moab
Height: Topropes and multipitch
Quality: Soft sandstone
Dogs: Not allowed
Water: Visitor's center
Hike: Most approaches short
Crowds: Lots of tourists
Fee: $10/week park entrance
Camping: Car camping for $10/night and free backcountry permits
Guide: Books exist. Also climbingmoab.com
Climbed: Owl Crack
Notes:
Lick Brook
Location: Finger Lakes Trail, between Treeman and Buttermilk
Height: 30'
Quality: Excellent. Good beginner climbs (WI 2)
Dogs: Not with ice, fine in the summer
Water: Frozen
Hike: 10 minutes
Crowds: None
Fee: None, but need permission to climb legally
Camping: None
Guide: None
Climbed: Most of the ice on the lower falls, about three or four routes
Notes:
Tinker's Falls
Location: Route 13 North to Truxton, right on Route 91 North
look for brown & yellow DEC sign at trailhead
Height: 40'
Quality: Excellent. Good beginner and moderate climbs (WI 2 & 3)
Dogs: Not with ice, fine in the summer
Water: Frozen.
Hike: 1/4 mile
Crowds: Usually see other climbers there, but not a problem
Fee: None
Camping: None
Guide: None
Climbed: Two or three routes on large slab right of center, also one
route up the more delicate pillar that forms in the middle
Notes:
Six Mile Creek
Location: Giles Street Bridge, also throughout the gorge
Height: 110'
Quality: Excellent. Long pitch of mostly vertical ice (WI 3)
Dogs: Not with ice, fine in the summer
Water: Plenty in gorge
Hike: 5 minutes
Crowds: None
Fee: None. Need permission to climb legally
Camping: None
Guide: None
Climbed: Businessman's Lunch, Playing Hooky (aka Light in Winter)
Notes:
Salmon River Falls
Location: Pulaski, NY
Route 13 South (east); 6.8 miles to left on route 22 (Cemetery Street)
just after Citgo station. 4.5 miles to right on falls road. Park at
DEC land on right.
Height: 100'
Quality: Excellent. Ampitheater is in shade, Salmon Steak in the sun.
Dogs: No
Water: Plenty in gorge
Hike: 5 minutes
Crowds: Moderate with good ice.
Fee: None. Must register at trailhead.
Camping: ?
Guide: Jim Lawyer's excellent guide. PDF format.
Climbed: Salmon Steak (WI4); Mate, Spawn and Die (WI5, M4)
Notes:
Rat Rock
Location: SW Corner of Central Park, near 59th street and Columbus circle.
Right next to the "historic playground" which was in the process of being
restored in 2004.
Height: 10'
Quality: Good rock. Some interesting boulder problems.
Dogs: Usual central park rules apply
Water: N/A
Hike: Depends where you start in Manhattan.
Crowds: Yeah. This is NYC.
Fee: None
Camping: Ha!
Guide: Some exist
Climbed: Some boulder problems on a cold, damp day.
Notes:
Chapel Pond
Location: Adirondacks. Take I-87 North to Route 9 North. Stay on Route 9
for just a bit, then take Route 73 North. Look for Chapel Pond on the
left about five miles from I-87. If you reach Keene Valley, you passed it.
Height: 50' - 100'
Quality: Good rock, good ice.
Dogs: Talus down at the bottom of the canyon.
Water: Plenty to treat
Hike: Up to a quarter mile.
Crowds: Not bad.
Fee: None
Camping: Small, free car camping area at trailhead
Guide: Climbing in the Adirondacks by Don Mellor (Jim Lawyer and Jeremy Haas have a new
guidebook in the works).
Climbed: Positive Reinforcement, Hot Shot, Ice Slot (ice). Empress on Chapel Pond Slab, and
"3.2" at Beer Walls (rock)
Notes:
Pitchoff Mountain
Location: Adirondacks. Take I-87 North to Route 9 North. Stay on Route 9
for just a bit, then take Route 73 North. Pass Keene Valley and look for
Pitchoff on the right. Parking is a series of turnouts on the left.
Height: Up to 100'
Quality: Good ice. Lots of easy ice. No rock?
Dogs: Busy road and steep slope to base of climbs.
Water: Plenty to treat
Hike: 2 minutes
Crowds: Can be busy on a nice weekeend day, but there is lots of ice.
Fee: None
Camping: Chapel Pond and lots of other places in the Adirondacks.
Guide: Climbing in the Adirondacks by Don Mellor (Jim Lawyer and Jeremy Haas have a new
guidebook in the works).
Climbed: Sisters Left, moderate ice just right of Sisters.
Notes:
Castle Hill
Location: Townsville, Australia. Right in the center of town. Access trails from both sides.
Height: Up to 300'
Quality: Granite
Dogs: Australians bring their dogs on the trails.
Water: None.
Hike: 5 minutes
Crowds: Lots of hikers.
Fee: None
Camping: Closest is the rest area 20km north of Townsville on the Bruce Highway.
Guide: qurank.com
Climbed: Eye of Ra
Notes:
Kissing Point
Location: Townsville, Australia. Far North end of the strand, beyond the rock pool.
Height: Up to 40'
Quality: Granite. Mostly chossy.
Dogs:
Water: None.
Hike: 1 minute
Crowds: None
Fee: None
Camping: Closest is the rest area 20km north of Townsville on the Bruce Highway.
Guide: qurank.com
Climbed: Swinging in a Sunday Sea Breeze
Notes:
Blue Mountains
Location: 100km West of Sydney, Australia.
Height: Up to 1200'
Quality: Chossy sandstone
Dogs:
Water: Not much during the dry season. Bring plenty.
Hike: 2.5 hours
Crowds: None
Fee: None
Camping: Backcountry camping allowed in Blue Mountains.
Guide: rockclimbing.com
Climbed: Margarine Ridge, Mt. Hay.
Notes:
Nowra
Location: Nowra, Australia. 2 hours South of Sydney.
Height: Up to 100'
Quality: Good sandstone.
Dogs: Australians bring their dogs on the trails.
Water: River nearby. Water in town.
Hike: 5 minutes
Crowds: Probably crowded at times. We didn't see many others.
Fee: None
Camping: Babylon area.
Guide: Published guidebook exists. Also some info on rockclimbing.com
Climbed: Santa's Little Helper, Butthead, Hang On, Samurai Pizza Catz, Layoff, Beavis, Korca,
Vanderholics (my favorite), Diddy Kong, and Gun Barrel Highway.
Notes:
Multiplication Gully
Location: Adirondacks. Take I-87 North to Route 9 North. Stay on Route 9
for just a bit, then take Route 73 North. In Lake Placid, take Route 86 North.
After a few miles look for the obivous gully on the right, just before the end
of the 35mph zone. Parking is 100' past the gully on the left.
Height: Two long pitches.
Quality: Nice long two pitch climb.
Dogs:
Water: Plenty to treat
Hike: 5 minutes
Crowds: Supposed to be popular.
Fee: None
Camping: Chapel Pond and lots of other places in the Adirondacks.
Guide: Climbing in the Adirondacks by Don Mellor (Jim Lawyer and Jeremy Haas have a new
guidebook in the works).
Climbed: First pitch
Notes: Cold and windy, no sun. Bring two ropes for the rappel.
Mineville Pillar
Location: Adirondacks. Take I-87 North to Route 9 North. Just east of the interstate,
make a left on Tracy road. Drive 2 miles and see the obvious flow on the left.
Height: 100'
Quality: Fun climbs. Gets lots of direct sun.
Dogs:
Water: Plenty to treat
Hike: 2 minutes
Crowds: Supposed to be popular.
Fee: None
Camping: Chapel Pond and lots of other places in the Adirondacks.
Guide: Climbing in the Adirondacks by Don Mellor (Jim Lawyer and Jeremy Haas have a new
guidebook in the works).
Climbed: Main flow and mixed route to left.
Notes: Set topropes by scrambling left. Can just rappel from the rap station with a 60m rope.
Red Rock
Location: Red Rock Conservation Area, 10 miles West of Las Vegas.
Height: Single pitch to big walls.
Quality: Mostly sandstone, some limestone.
Dogs:
Water: Some say it is important to treat the water in the campground.
Hike: Varies
Crowds: Lots of people, but lots of climbing. Classics are often crowded.
Fee: $5/day or $20/year.
Camping: Nearby BLM camping. $10/night/site. Free camping in Black Velvet Canyon (not legal)
Guide: Many
Climbed: Cat in the Hat, Black Orpheus, Gridlock, and others in March 2006.
Prince of Darkness, Crimson Chrysalis, Caustic in June 2006.
Olive Oil, Solar Slab, Frogland, Epinephrine, Triassic Sands and much more in March 2008.
Kansas
Location: Rest stop on I-70 eastbound just west of exit 225.
Height: 4'
Quality: Rocks are proped on metal poles
Dogs: On leash
Water: From spigot
Hike: About 5 yards
Crowds: Rest stops can get crowded
Fee: None
Camping: You can sleep in the car
Guide: None
Climbed: Sent every boulder problem there, yo!
Lumpy Ridge
Location: North of Estes Park in RMNP
Height: Up to 800'
Quality: Excellent granite
Dogs: Long multipitch routes
Water: None
Hike: 30 to 90 minutes
Crowds: Avoidable. Parking lot can fill early.
Fee: None
Camping: We stayed for free in Roosevelt NF, but it is a 20 mile drive
Guide: Some pretty lousy guides exist
Climbed: Kor's Flake, J Crack
Rocky Mountain National Park - Alpine Rock
Location: RMNP
Height: 1000'
Quality: Good considering it is alpine
Dogs: Not allowed
Water: Treatable streams
Hike: Long approaches
Crowds: Popular climbs can be very crowded, especially on weekends
Fee: Park entrance fee or National Park Pass
Camping: Expensive permit in the park, free in National Forest outside park.
Guide: Several exist
Climbed: Petit Grepon
Rifle
Location: Rifle, Colorado
Height: 100'
Quality: Good limestone
Dogs: Ok location if they are leashed
Water: Treatable river in park
Hike: 60 second approaches to most crags
Crowds: Lots of hardmen and hardwomen working 13s.
Fee: $5/day $40/year
Camping: $12/night in campground. Free camping in White River NF. Drive
through park to forest. Take the first left and go up the steep hill.
Make another left at the t-intersection. Drive to the large meadow and camp.
Guide: Several exist.
Climbed: Two days of sport routes in 2006
Castle Valley
Location: Moab, UT
Height: 500'
Quality: Good sandstone
Dogs: Lousy location
Water: Hard to find. Bring plenty.
Hike: 2 hour approach with several exposed sections
Crowds: None in the middle of summer :-)
Fee: None
Camping: Free in Access Fund owned parking area
Guide: Several exist
Climbed: North Chimney on Castleton
Yosemite
Location: Yosemite National Park
Height: From single pitch to 3000' routes
Quality: Amazing granite
Dogs: Not allowed off leash in the park
Water: Available
Hike: Varies
Crowds: Valley is always packed with people.
Fee: National Park Pass
Camping: $5/person/night in camp 4. $20/site/night in Tuolumne. Pirate camping possible,
but rangers are observant and strict.
Guide: Many exist
Climbed: Nutcracker, Moby Dick, Lost Arrow Spire, Snake Dike, Central Pillar of
Frenzy, South Face of Washington Column, Mt. Conness, NW Books on Liembert,
Excellent Smithers, Cathedral Peak, Fairview Dome
Mt. Shasta
Location: Northern California
Height: 14,162'
Quality: Good rock, snow and ice.
Dogs: No
Water: Not at campgrounds. Spring at the Horse Camp hut is reliable as of 2006.
Hike: The whole thing is a hike
Crowds: Popular route
Fee: Backcountry permit required to go above treeline.
Camping: Free camping at Bunny Flats.
Guide: ?
Climbed: Avalanche Gulch. Non-technical route to summit.
Notes: Castle Crags is nearby and supposedly has some good rock.
Smith Rock
Location: Terrebone, OR. Just north of Redmond, OR.
Height: Up to 300'
Quality: Good volcanic rock
Dogs: Allowed?
Water: Spigots in park
Hike: 5 to 30 minutes
Crowds: Popular climbing
Fee: $3/car/day
Camping: $4/person/night in bivy area. Nice bathrooms with showers. And the
fee includes your day pass. Free camping in rest area on road and at skull
somethingorother. From Smith Rock, make a left at the first three stop signs
you reach. Drive 4.1 miles from the third stop sign and look left for free camping.
Guide: New Smith Rock Select guide is pretty good
Climbed: Two days in 2006.
Squamish
Location: North of Vancouver, BC
Height: Over 1000'
Quality: Excellent granite.
Dogs: Good for single pitch routes
Water: In summer 2006, water from campground had to be treated. Still that way in 2008.
Hike: 5 to 30 minutes
Crowds: Popular but large
Fee: None
Camping: $9CA/site/night (2008 update -- $10/site/night). Free camping in various back roads. Supposedly there
is a nice area if you drive behing the Save On and head towards the water.
Guide: Several exist
Climbed: Bunch of climbs at Smoke Bluffs and Lower Chief (including Exasperator). Also Deidre and Snake on South Apron.
Also climbed at Cheakamus, Murrin and Bulletheads.
Bugaboos
Location: Bugaboo Provincial Park near Brisco, BC.
Height: Huge
Quality: Considered good for alpine, but lots of loose rock.
Dogs: Ha!
Water: Treatable glacial runoff
Hike: 5.5km uphill to Applebee campground.
Crowds: Popular routes can be crowded
Fee: $5CA/person/night
Camping: Applebee and Boulder campgrounds. Kain hut at $22/night
Guide: Whatever book Joe had was pretty good.
Climbed: McTech Arete, NE Ridge of Bugaboo Spire
Devil's Tower
Location: Northeast Wyoming
Height: 500'
Quality: Good. But the leaning tower is falling over.
Dogs: Bad location.
Water: At visitor's center. Supposedly tastes poor.
Hike: 10 minutes
Crowds: Popular routes can be crowded.
Fee: National Park entrance fee.
Camping: $10/night in park.
Guide: Printed guides must exist
Climbed: Durrance
Notes: Voluntary climbing closure every June.
Summerville
Location: West Virginia, north of New River Gorge.
Height: Single pitch
Quality: Good sandstone.
Dogs: Tough approach unless you take a boat.
Water: Treatable lake
Hike: 30 minutes
Crowds: Popular and crowded, but lots of routes.
Fee: None
Camping: Free camping, but warnings about crime abound.
Guide: Jason got a guide which was highly recommended
Climbed: Orange Oswald crag.
Franklin
Location: Franklin, West Virginia
Height: Single pitch
Quality: Good limestone
Dogs: Easy approach
Water: Treatable creek
Hike: 0 to 5 minutes
Crowds: None when I was there
Fee: None. Private land, but climbing is tolerated.
Camping: None
Guide: Jason found some
Climbed: Bircham's Beach, Aloha (aka Bircham's Other), Blood, Sweat and Chalk
Notes: Wear blaze orange during hunting season. And maybe
during other seasons too.
Hidden Rocks
Location: Harrisonburg, VA. Hike down Forest Service Trail #511
Height: 40'
Quality: Good sandstone
Dogs: Easy approach
Water: Treatable streams
Hike: 1.5 miles
Crowds: None when I was there
Fee: None
Camping: Free in the forest
Guide: Zook's guide to climbing around Harrisonburg
Climbed: Bucketland
Stone Mountain
Location: Stone Mountain State Park, North Carolina
Height: 500'
Quality: Granite Dome
Dogs:
Water: Potable water in park
Hike: 15 minutes
Crowds: None when I was there
Fee: None
Camping: $15/site/night in park
Guide: We had the North Carolina climbing guide
Climbed: The Great Arch, Grand Funk Railroad, Electric Boobs, The Pulpit
Rumney
Location: Rumney, NH
Height: Single Pitch
Quality: Excellent
Dogs:
Water: We got some at a gas station a few miles away. You could treat the river water,
but there is lots of agriculture in the area.
Hike: 5 - 30 minutes
Crowds: Popular climbs are often crowded.
Fee: $3/day or $5/week or $20/year
Camping: We slept in the car in the parking lot which may or may not be allowed.
Guide: Ward Smith's book
Climbed: 4 days in 2007
Cannon
Location: Franconia Notch, NH
Height: 600'
Quality: Chossy Granite
Dogs:
Water: None
Hike: 60 minutes
Crowds: Whitney Gilman often has a queue
Fee: None
Camping: None
Guide:
Climbed: Whitney Gilman
Poke-O-Moonshine
Location: Adirondacks, NY
Height: 500'
Quality: Mostly Good Granite
Dogs:
Water: None
Hike: 5 to 10 minutes
Crowds: Gamesmanship often has a queue
Fee: $1 walk in, $4/car day use, $12/site (+$2.75 reservation fee) for camping
Camping: Nice car camping. Cheapest to sleep in the car on the side of the road.
Guide: Climbing in the Adirondacks by Don Mellor (Jim Lawyer and Jeremy Haas have a new
guidebook in the works).
Climbed: Gamesmanship, The Sting, FM, site #2 boulder
Blue Run Rocks
Location: Tioga State Forest, Sabinsville, PA
Height: 30'
Quality: Decent rock. Most routes are dirty
Dogs:
Water: Stream crossing on main trail
Hike: 45 minutes
Crowds: Not likely
Fee: None
Camping: Free backcountry camping
Guide: http://www.nathanheston.com/bluerunrocks/bluerunrocks.html
Climbed: Levitation, Darwin's Dilemna, Power Play, Taking it Easy, Stealworker, Jake Said Ouch, etc.
Hurricane Crag
Location: Adirondacks, between Elizabetown and Keene.
The parking for Hurricane Crag is located on the north side of Route 9N,
5.2 miles west of the intersection with route 9 in Elizabetown, and 4.8
miles east of the intersection with Route 73 near Keene (and 1.3 miles east
of the Hurricane Mountain trailhead). The herd path begins on the north
side of the road between power poles #107 and #108. There is a large gravel
shoulder and room for many cars.
Height: 500'
Quality: Decent granite. Band of loose rock at the top.
Dogs:
Water: None
Hike: 45 minutes up a steep hill
Crowds: Not likely
Fee: None
Camping: Wherever in the Adirondacks
Guide: Climbing in the Adirondacks by Don Mellor (Jim Lawyer and Jeremy Haas have a new
guidebook in the works).
Climbed: Quadrophenia
Spider's Web
Location: Adirondacks, directly across from Chapel Pond.
Height: 150'
Quality: Excellent rock. Some routes dirty. Fantastic, hard cracks.
Dogs:
Water: None
Hike: 25 minutes
Crowds: Not likely
Fee: None
Camping: Directly across route 73 from the trailhead is the free campground at the northwest end of Chapel Pond.
Guide: Climbing in the Adirondacks by Don Mellor (Jim Lawyer and Jeremy Haas have a new
guidebook in the works).
Climbed: Mr. Rogers' Neighborhood
El Potrero Chico
Location: Hidalgo, Nuevo Leon, Mexico
Height: single pitch to 23 pitches
Quality: Limestone. Lots of loose rock.
Dogs:
Water: Everyone drinks the spring water which is piped to the campsites
Hike: 10 to 30 minutes
Crowds: Something is always open
Fee: Park is free. Two guys charge a dollar to enter the preserve, which they are apparently not allowed to do.
Camping: Lots of campgrounds. La Posada is $5/person/night and has hot showers, wireless internet, and a big kitchen.
Guide: Magic Ed's Select and The Whole Enchilada are both good.
Climbed: Two weeks in January 2008.
Sawtooth Range
Location: Redfish Lake, Idaho
Height: 1000'
Quality: Alpine granite. Expect some loose rock.
Dogs:
Water: Treat alpine lakes.
Hike: Nine miles to basecamp. Can cut five miles by paying $15 round trip for the boat shuttle.
Crowds: Other climbers will be in the area. Only Mountaineer's Route regularly sees more than one party per day.
Fee: None except optional boat shuttle.
Guide: Mountain Project web pages are the best choice.
Climbed: Mountaineer's Route on Elephant's Perch
City of Rocks
Location: Almo, Idaho
Height: Mostly single pitch climbs. Longest climb is five pitches.
Quality: Excellent granite
Dogs: Allowed on leash?
Water: Manual pump at western edge of park. Also a 24/7 spigot at the visitor's center.
Hike: 2-45 minutes. Most approaches are very short.
Crowds: Any crag close to the road will be crowded.
Fee: None to climb. Pay camping in the park. Free camping at BLM land 2.0 miles south of visitor's center on right.
Guide: City of Rocks by Dave Bingham
Climbed: Four days in 2008
Grand Teton National Park
Location: Wyoming
Height: Grand Teton is 13,770'
Quality: Loose loose loose. Approaches, climbs and descents often have bad rock.
Dogs:
Water: Lots of water to treat in the park.
Hike: Typical approaches are from 2 miles to 7 miles.
Crowds: Popular routes (like the Grand) will be very crowded.
Fee: None to climb. Camping is about $20/site/night. American Alpine Club hut is about $20/person/night.
We stayed for free in the National Forest next to the park.
Guide: A Climber's Guide to the Teton Range (3rd Edition) by Leigh Ortenburger and Reynold Jackson
Teton Rock Climbs (digital media) by Aaron Gams
Climbed: Disappointment Peak, Baxter's Pinnacle. Attempted the Grand.
Wind River Range
Location: Wyoming
Height: Most peaks summit around 12,000'.
Quality: Generally excellent granite.
Dogs:
Water: Water to treat everywhere.
Hike: Seven miles from trailhead to Deep Lake area. Nine miles from trailhead to Cirque of the Towers.
Approaches from a Cirque basecamp typically take from 30 minutes to 3 hours.
Crowds: Popular routes will be crowded.
Fee: None
Guide: Cirque of the Towers and Deep Lake by Steve Bechtel
Climbed: Haystack, Pingora, Shark's Nose, Wolf's Head
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